![]() I like using a plant mister for this.įor the first wash, or a wash prior to waxing.I use Dawn. I use a mixture of one cap of car wash soap along with about 24-32 ounces of water. I'd also suggest using clay first, after the wash of course. Zaino also not makes an AIO type product that is excellent. I too use Klasse AIO, has a mild cleaner and lasts a good while. It may take you an hour to wash and wax your car, but it lasts weeks, and makes the vehicle last longer. most upper end products work great, they all apply a bit differently, so find something you like, a spray wax doesn't last as long as a compound, multiple coats are good, circular motion when washing and waxing are key, and watch plastic with some compounds, it may dry white on them, and it is a pain to get off.ĭon't forget about the wheels and tires. I detailed cars for a few years in my life, new and old, and sometimes too old. That was a lot of product pitching, think I would be a salesman or something. Just make sure to follow the directions or it doesn't work as well. Also, if you have never used Rain-X, I think anyone who has used it loves it. clean car wash thingy, it has a filter in it to reduce water spots, and works well.Ī product to make it go faster is a car squeegee, they work great. If you have hard water, try finding a mr. The Ice products are really nice for newer vehicles. If you are looking to get into this, I would suggest getting mothers (or equivalent) chrome polish, most decent car soap won't leave a residue so any good brand, but turtle makes car soap called ICE ( ) as well as wax, bars, and what not. As stated above, using a clay bar is great, but you shouldn't have to do it right away on a new car. I am by no means a fanatic but all my stuff gets washed at least weekly and fully detailed several times a year.ĭon't forget to wash and wax in the shade. ![]() Buy a bulk pack of microfiber towels at sam's and use them for everything and only wah them separately gentle cycle and never use dryer sheets. I like the big micro-fiber covered sponges for washing. fill the bucket full enough so you aren't dipping into the dirt settled on the bottom. Just some basics for washing: Buy the good name brand car wash soap, not the cheap stuiff in a gallon jug and certainly not dish soap and use very little in vaery warm water. You basically wet the surface with the spray and then just rub the bar back and forth over the removes tar (although if you have a lot of tar, strip it off with a tar remover or you will foul the bar), sap, and road grime. Meguires sells a kit with the bar and a bottle of the spray or you can order them separately from the online retailers. It is used along with a spray quick detail product and will clean all the grittiness that washing won't and leave a much smoother finish to wax. The best thing you can do is to use a clay bar once a year prior to a wax job. I thought a similar topic was discussed on here a while back but I was unable to find the thread searching (maybe in free parking)Īny suggestions on particular products/methods? How often should it need waxing? Do I need to wax right after buying or will it have wax from the factory? I know Meguiars is good name in the area and I see that they have "how to's" on their website. Any resources you have on the topic would also be appreciated. I just want to make sure I'm doing a good job and don't do anything to mess it up in the future. I'm also feel confident that the products/tools/methods used make a huge difference. Waxing in particular is what I feel I know less about. ![]() While I have washed and waxed a couple vehicles before, I'm sure there are better ways than others. I can honestly say I never saw my dad wash or wax any vehicle. I grew up on a farm and have always had rougher vehicles that didn't get very much attention. Well I just bought a new truck (GMC Sierra SLE Crewcab 4x4.color: think they call it granite blue) and shortly I will need to give it a washing and possibly waxing). ![]()
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